Housing: Living In Havana

After the Castro-led socialist revolution in 1959, many of Cuba 's resources went toward improving life in the country, neglecting the Cuban capital, Habana, home to 2.2 million people. While life in the country has improved in the form of better electrical service and water, the price has been high.

In Old Havana there are many houses in desperate need of renovation. Although UNESCO declared Habana Vieja (Old Havana) a world heritage site in 1982 and has begun financing the renovation of many buildings, there is still much to be done.

Ironically some feel that the revolution might have saved Old Habana from destruction. In the 1950's there were plans to tear down large parts of it to build casinos for the booming gambling trade.

Not all renovations are paid for through UNESCO monies.  Who is paying for this project?

Official Cuban statistics claim that 85% of Cubans own their homes. This is a result of the policy of the Cuban regime immediately following the revolution to reform housing and rents.  Neither mortgage nor rent payments may exceed 10% of a household's income.  While it can be argued that Cubans earn very little, it can also be argued that almost nobody in Cuba is homeless and housing costs are only a tiny part of their income and are very inexpensive.  Utilities are also heavily subsidized and thus inexpensive. Are utilities subsidized in America ?

Castro's new policies were based on the socialist principles that

  1. Housing is a right, not a commodity
  2. Housing should be equitable 
  3. The government should make housing decisions

How are these housing principles different from those in the United States ?

Although so many people own their own homes,  it is not possible for them to sell them privately. They must sell them to the state or they may trade them to other private individuals for a house or apartment of equal value. One will often see signs advertising this which say - se permuta. 

Another sign one will see every few blocks is for the CDR, or Committee for the Defense of the Revolution.  After the success of the Revolution, Castro set up a system of neighborhood informants to discourage and report dissent in every neighborhood. 

Many fled after the revolution - typically the well educated who did not agree philosophically with Castro's policies - and had to leave their large houses behind.  These often were made into embassies or offices such as the green building shown below.  Sometimes they were subdivided into apartments to ease the housing shortage.

One feature missing from the urban Cuban landscape is product advertising.  Occasionally one will see small advertisements for various state products such as Cristal beer or Habana Club Rum.  There are billboards but they mainly carry advertisements for the revolution such as the one below advertising the CDR.

Even state run stores lack advertising.  Unless you live in the neighborhood, there is no good way to know that the picture at left is a store where one can use a ration book to buy groceries.

One of the most famous places in all of Cuba to be out in public and "see and be seen" is the Malecón, a street along the sea in Habana Vieja.  It is used as a background for many famous Cuban movies (such as Vivir es Silbar).  In the background you can see Centro Habana with its tall buildings, most of them former casinos.  When Castro came to power he closed  them.  Why would this be part of his socialist agenda?

Can you think of any equivalent streets or gathering places where you live?

Every neighborhood has a CDR spokesperson.  This zone is named after Josué País, a hero of the revolution.

Always united defending socialism - CDR 42

A house formally belonging to a wealthy family, which has now become an embassy.

"In every neighborhood, revolution." The CDR.

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Havana's most famous street and gathering place: El Malecón.